Overlap Grip in Golf:
The Vardon Grip Setup Guide

The overlap grip gets its name from one simple feature: your trail hand's pinky finger sits on top of — overlaps — the gap between your lead hand's index finger and middle finger. That's it. No interlocking, no baseball-style ten-finger placement. Just a pinky resting in a groove formed by two knuckles on the opposite hand.

This grip style is also called the Vardon grip, named after Harry Vardon — a six-time Open Championship winner in the early 1900s who popularized it. Before Vardon, most golfers used the ten-finger (baseball) grip. Vardon showed that overlapping the pinky connected the hands without locking them together, giving players more feel and wrist freedom while maintaining control. Within a generation, it became the dominant grip on tour — and it still is today.

The mechanics are straightforward. Your lead hand (left hand for right-handed golfers) does most of the structural work — it anchors the club and controls face angle through impact. Your trail hand provides power and direction, but because the pinky overlaps rather than interlocks, it maintains slightly more independence from the lead hand. This independence translates to more touch and feel, particularly on partial shots, chips, and pitches where wrist finesse matters.

Roughly 65-70% of PGA Tour players use the overlap grip. The remaining 30-35% use the interlocking grip (most famously Tiger Woods and Jack Nicklaus). Almost nobody at the professional level uses the ten-finger grip. The overlap's dominance isn't because it's objectively "better" — it's because it suits the hand size and playing style of most competitive golfers. If your hands are medium to large, the overlap will likely feel natural. If your hands are small, interlock might give you better connection.

Here's the key distinction that most instruction glosses over: the overlap grip doesn't just change where your pinky sits. It changes the pressure relationship between your two hands. In an interlock, the hands are physically linked — they move as a single unit whether you want them to or not. In an overlap, the hands are connected by contact pressure alone. This means you can modulate how much each hand contributes to the swing simply by adjusting grip pressure — something that's much harder to do with interlocked fingers.

Getting the overlap grip right takes about two minutes of deliberate setup. Once it's ingrained, you won't think about it anymore — but the first few times, slow down and check each step. A sloppy overlap is worse than no overlap at all because the pinky can slip into no-man's-land and create an inconsistent connection between your hands.

Step 1 — Lead hand placement: Hold the club in your left hand (for right-handers) with the grip running diagonally from the base of your index finger to just under the heel pad. The handle should NOT sit in your palm — that's a death grip that kills wrist hinge. It sits in the fingers. Close your hand around the grip. You should see 2-2.5 knuckles when you look down. The V formed by your left thumb and index finger should point toward your right shoulder.

Step 2 — Left thumb position: Your left thumb sits slightly right of center on the top of the grip — what instructors call a "short thumb" position. Don't stretch it down the shaft. A short thumb creates a pocket that your right hand will fit into perfectly. If you extend the thumb too far down, your right hand has nowhere to sit comfortably.

Step 3 — Trail hand approach: Bring your right hand to the club with your fingers first, not your palm. The lifeline of your right palm should cover your left thumb completely. Your right hand's middle and ring fingers wrap around the grip and provide most of the trail-hand hold. Your right index finger sits in a slightly triggered position — like you're pulling a trigger — separated slightly from the middle finger.

Step 4 — The overlap: Here's the defining move. Your right pinky sits on top of the groove between your left index finger and middle finger. It doesn't hook under, it doesn't interlace, it simply rests on top of that ridge. Some players let the pinky sit more on top of the left index finger's knuckle; others nestle it more into the groove between the two knuckles. Both work — find what feels secure without creating tension in the pinky itself.

Step 5 — Trail hand V-check: Look down at your completed grip. The V formed by your right thumb and index finger should point toward your right shoulder — roughly parallel to the left-hand V. If your right-hand V points at your chin, your trail hand is too far on top (too "weak") and you'll fight an open face. If it points past your right shoulder, you're too "strong" and may hook.

Step 6 — Pressure check: With the grip complete, your overall pressure should be about a 4-5 out of 10. You should be able to hold the club without it slipping, but your forearms shouldn't have visible tension. The primary pressure points are the last three fingers of your left hand and the middle two fingers of your right hand. The right pinky should have minimal pressure — it's a connector, not a gripper.

Practice this setup 20-30 times without hitting balls. Put the club down, pick it up, rebuild the grip from scratch. By the 15th repetition, your hands should find their positions automatically. That automaticity is what you're after — you want grip setup to be a 3-second non-event, not a 30-second construction project on the first tee.

The overlap grip has been the tour standard for over a century, and that longevity isn't accidental. Here's what it does well:

More feel and touch: Because the hands aren't physically locked together, each hand retains slight independence. This translates to better feel on partial shots, chips, pitches, and bunker shots where you need fine-grained distance control. Many players report that they can "sense" the clubhead better with an overlap grip — the feedback loop between hands and clubface feels more direct.

Greater wrist freedom: The overlap allows slightly more wrist hinge and release compared to the interlock. This gives players more ability to shape shots — work the ball left or right on demand — because the wrists can manipulate the face angle through impact with less resistance. For players who like to move the ball both ways, this freedom is valuable.

Better for larger hands: If your hands are medium to large, your fingers are long enough to wrap around the grip with room to spare. The overlap takes advantage of that extra finger length by placing the pinky on top rather than cramming it between two other fingers. Interlock can feel cramped and uncomfortable for players with big hands — the overlapping pinky eliminates that crowded sensation.

Less strain on the pinky: Interlocking places lateral stress on the trail pinky because it's wedged between two fingers in an unnatural position. Over thousands of swings, this can cause discomfort or even mild joint inflammation. The overlap places the pinky in a natural, relaxed position that creates zero lateral stress. If you've ever felt pinky pain or stiffness after long practice sessions with an interlock grip, switching to overlap often eliminates it immediately.

Easier to adjust mid-round: Because the overlap is held together by pressure rather than physical interlocking, it's faster to regrip between shots and easier to make micro-adjustments on the fly. Want to slightly strengthen your grip for a draw? Rotate your hands a fraction. It takes one second. With an interlock, any grip adjustment requires fully unthreading and re-threading the fingers.

Tour-proven reliability: Ben Hogan, Phil Mickelson, Rory McIlroy, Dustin Johnson, Collin Morikawa, and roughly 65-70% of current PGA Tour players use the overlap. That's not because they all have the same hands or the same swing — it's because the overlap works across a wide range of swing styles and provides consistent performance under pressure. When the stakes are highest, you want a grip that doesn't require conscious thought — and the overlap's simplicity delivers that.

No grip style is perfect for everyone. Here's where the overlap can work against you:

Less hand unity: The overlap connects your hands, but it doesn't lock them together. For some golfers — particularly those with weaker grip strength or smaller hands — this lack of physical connection means the hands can work independently during the swing. When the hands don't move as a unit, timing issues arise: the trail hand can fire too early (causing hooks) or lag behind (causing pushes and slices). If you feel like your hands are "fighting each other" during the swing, you might benefit from the more unified connection of an interlock.

Trail hand dominance: Because the trail hand maintains more independence in an overlap grip, it has more potential to overpower the lead hand. A dominant trail hand can flip the clubface closed at impact (producing hooks) or pull the club across the body (producing pulls). If you're a naturally right-hand-dominant golfer who tends to hook the ball, the overlap's extra trail-hand freedom might be exacerbating the problem. The interlock reduces this risk by binding the trail hand more tightly to the lead hand.

Can feel insecure for small hands: If your hands are on the smaller side, your trail pinky might not have enough surface area to sit comfortably in the groove between your lead fingers. It can feel like the pinky is perched precariously on top with no anchor point. This insecurity creates unconscious tension — you grip harder to compensate, which kills wrist hinge and reduces clubhead speed. Players with small hands almost universally feel more confident with an interlock, where the pinky is physically secured between two fingers.

Requires correct grip pressure: The overlap only works properly when grip pressure is balanced and moderate. Too tight, and the connection between hands becomes rigid — you lose the feel advantage. Too loose, and the pinky slides off during the swing, creating inconsistent contact points from shot to shot. Players who struggle with grip pressure consistency may find the interlock more forgiving because it maintains its connection regardless of pressure variation.

Not ideal for extreme cold or wet conditions: In rain or cold weather, reduced sensation in the fingers can make the overlap connection feel unreliable. The pinky doesn't grip or interlock — it just rests — so when your tactile feedback is dulled by cold or wet gloves, you might feel less certain about the connection. This is a minor issue that a good glove and proper grip maintenance largely solves, but it's worth noting for golfers who play year-round in harsh conditions.

This is the question I get asked the most: which is better, overlap or interlock? The honest answer is neither — they're different tools for different hands and different swing tendencies. But here's a clear breakdown of the actual mechanical differences so you can make an informed choice.

The physical difference: In the overlap, your trail pinky sits ON TOP of the groove between your lead index and middle fingers. In the interlock, your trail pinky threads BETWEEN your lead index and middle fingers, with the lead index finger also threading behind the trail pinky. The interlock physically links the two hands; the overlap merely connects them by contact.

Hand unity vs feel: The interlock creates a more unified connection — your hands are literally threaded together and must move as one unit. This is an advantage if your problem is hands working independently (common with beginners) or if you need maximum consistency with minimal practice. The overlap sacrifices some unity for feel — you get more touch and wrist freedom, but you need enough coordination to keep the hands synced without a physical link.

Hand size: This is the biggest practical differentiator. Interlock suits smaller hands because it provides security without requiring the finger length to drape a pinky on top. Overlap suits medium to large hands because there's enough finger real estate for the pinky to sit comfortably in the groove. A player with short, stubby fingers will likely find the overlap uncomfortable or insecure. A player with long, slender fingers will likely find the interlock cramped.

Swing tendency corrections: If you hook the ball (trail hand too active), the interlock can help by reducing trail-hand independence. If you slice the ball (hands not releasing), the overlap's extra wrist freedom can help you release more aggressively through impact. Neither grip "fixes" swing faults, but each one has tendencies that can work with or against your natural ball flight.

Famous overlap users: Ben Hogan, Phil Mickelson, Rory McIlroy, Dustin Johnson, Collin Morikawa, Arnold Palmer, Byron Nelson — 65-70% of PGA Tour players.

Famous interlock users: Tiger Woods, Jack Nicklaus, Tom Kite, Bubba Watson, Jordan Spieth — roughly 30% of PGA Tour players.

My recommendation: Try both for a full range session (50+ balls each) and see which produces more consistent contact and feels more secure at full speed. Don't judge by feel alone during slow-motion rehearsals — the grip needs to work when you're swinging at 100%. Most golfers with medium or large hands gravitate naturally to the overlap. Most golfers with small hands gravitate to the interlock. Trust your hands — they'll tell you which connection point works better.

The overlap grip isn't universally the "best" grip — but it IS the best grip for specific player profiles. Here's who benefits most:

Players with medium to large hands: If your glove size is medium-large, large, or XL, the overlap is almost certainly more comfortable than the interlock. Your fingers have the length to drape the pinky naturally over the groove without stretching or feeling insecure. Most men with hands 7.5 inches or longer from wrist crease to middle fingertip do well with the overlap.

Players who hook the ball: If your miss is left (for right-handers), your trail hand is probably too active through impact. The overlap slightly reduces trail-hand dominance compared to the ten-finger grip while still giving the trail hand more independence than the interlock. Combined with a slightly weakened grip (rotate both hands a quarter-turn left), the overlap can tame a hook without overcorrecting into a slice.

Players who prioritize feel and shot-shaping: If you like working the ball both ways — fading around a tree, drawing to a tucked pin — the overlap's extra wrist freedom gives you more ability to manipulate the face through impact. Players who play a "one shape only" game don't necessarily need this freedom, but shotmakers tend to prefer it.

Players with pinky pain from interlock: The interlock puts lateral pressure on the trail pinky that's unnatural for the joint. If you've experienced pinky soreness, stiffness, or inflammation with the interlock, switching to the overlap eliminates that stress immediately. The pinky simply rests — no wedging, no lateral force.

Players who practice frequently: High-volume practice (200+ balls per session, multiple times per week) amplifies any repetitive stress from the grip. The overlap's low-stress pinky position holds up better under high practice volume than the interlock. Tour players who hit 500+ balls daily almost universally prefer the overlap for this reason.

Who should NOT use it: If you have small hands (glove size small or medium), weak grip strength, or a tendency for your hands to separate during the swing, the interlock is probably a better fit. Similarly, beginners who haven't yet developed the hand coordination to keep two independently-connected hands synced may benefit from the interlock's forced unity during the learning phase.

Having the overlap position correct is only half the equation. Where you apply pressure — and how much — determines whether the grip works for you or fights you. Most grip problems I see aren't position problems — they're pressure problems. The hands are in the right place, but the force distribution is wrong, creating tension that kills speed or looseness that creates inconsistency.

Lead hand — last three fingers: Your left ring finger, middle finger, and pinky should provide the majority of your lead-hand grip pressure. These three fingers anchor the club and prevent it from shifting during the swing. On a scale of 1-10, these fingers should grip at about a 5-6. Your lead index finger and thumb should be much lighter — maybe a 2-3 — because they need to allow wrist hinge in the backswing without restriction.

Trail hand — middle two fingers: Your right middle finger and ring finger are your trail-hand anchors. They wrap around the grip and provide directional control. Pressure: 4-5 out of 10. Your right index finger sits in the "trigger" position — slightly separated from the middle finger — and applies very light pressure. It's a guide, not a gripper.

The overlapping pinky — minimal pressure: This is the most commonly misunderstood pressure point. Your right pinky should apply almost zero gripping force. It's a connector — it sits in position to link the hands — but it shouldn't be squeezing, pressing, or actively holding anything. Think of it as resting in a cradle, not gripping a ledge. If your right pinky is white-knuckled, you're doing it wrong and you'll create tension that radiates up through your forearm.

The left thumb — light and centered: Your left thumb sits slightly right of center on the grip with minimal downward pressure. It creates the "channel" that your right palm fits into, but it shouldn't be pressing hard against the grip. Heavy thumb pressure creates tension in the lead forearm and restricts wrist hinge during the backswing.

Overall pressure through the swing: Most instructors teach that grip pressure should remain constant from address through impact. In practice, most good players experience a slight firming at the top of the backswing (preventing the club from loosening) and through impact (maintaining control through the ball). The key is that pressure changes should be subtle and unconscious — not a dramatic tightening at any point. If you catch yourself re-gripping at the top, your baseline pressure is too light.

The Sam Snead test: Sam Snead famously described ideal grip pressure as holding a bird — firm enough that it can't escape, light enough that you don't crush it. That's about a 4-5 out of 10 for the full hands. If your grip pressure is at 7 or above, you're bleeding clubhead speed — tension in the hands creates tension in the forearms and shoulders, which restricts the free-flowing rotation that generates speed.

Here's a drill that calibrates your pressure: grip the club at what feels like a 7/10 and hit five balls. Then grip at 3/10 and hit five more. Notice the difference in ball flight and contact. The too-tight shots will feel controlled but short and thin. The too-loose shots will feel free but inconsistent. Now find the sweet spot between them — usually around 4.5-5/10 — where the club feels secure but your wrists are loose and your forearms are relaxed. That's your target pressure for every shot.